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Minimalist Beauty

your life as beauty from the inside out

Minimalist Beauty

Don’t Panic, Low Porosity Hair Isn’t Bad!

April 8, 2016 by Dawn Michelle

One of the best things about low porosity hair is that minimal hair care works better.  Once you understand this, you’ve already got the hard stuff covered.  The best way to keep low porosity hair moisturized is to keep it clean and free of product build-up!

Last winter I decided to do the porosity hair strand test again where you place a few strands of clean hair into a glass container filled with water.  After a few minutes if your hair sinks to the bottom, your hair is high in porosity.  If your hair strands settle to the middle of the glass, you have normal porosity.  If they float, you have low porosity.  Testing the porosity of your hair allows you to understand how easily your hair absorbs water.  Somehow I got distracted doing something else, and completely forgot that I was even doing this porosity test.

The next morning I noticed my hair strands still floating at the top of the glass container!

In my opinion, low to normal porosity with an intact hair cuticle is ideal.  Hair that is too porous has a difficult time maintaining a moisture and protein balance.  This is often caused by chemically altering the hair, and/or heat damage which creates vulnerable areas throughout the hair strands.  Mechanical damage from very rough handling can also create vulnerability in hair strands, so treating your hair delicately is important.

In the process of learning how to care for our hair, we can sometimes get overzealous and do way too much.  I’ve been guilty of this in the past myself.  There is so much information and scientific research on hair care that it can be so overwhelming.  For those with low porosity hair like myself, maintaining moisture in the hair strands while having healthy hair in general doesn’t have to be complicated.  This is one reason why I love rinsing my hair daily in the shower.

Because I’m chemically sensitive, I have not based my hair care around commercial hair care products.  Having an itchy irritated scalp, getting a headache, or feeling nauseous from using a store bought hair care product just wasn’t worth it for me.  Instead I have learned how individual ingredients affect my hair, and I’ve built my hair regimen around what I’ve learned through trial and error.

One of the greatest benefits to having hair that is low in porosity is that you don’t have to use a lot of leave-ins or hair products in general.

When you layer product after product on low porosity hair, you actually suffocate your hair from being able to absorb water when you wash your hair again unless using a strong hair cleanser which can be very drying.  Low porosity hair experiences hair build up faster than other hair types.  By limiting the products that you use as leave-ins to one product or ingredient, your hair strands are more available to absorb water the next time the opportunity arises.

Once low porosity hair fully absorbs water, it has no problem maintaining that moisture.  If your hair is having a hard time absorbing water, begin with clarifying your hair.  If you have a lot of build-up, it can take a few clarifying treatments to remove that heavy coating off of your hair.

Bentonite clay mixed with apple cider vinegar is my favorite all natural hair clarifier.  This mixture also has the ideal pH balance for your hair.

By rinsing my hair daily and very lightly sealing with a small amount of shea butter, I have avoided the issue of hair dehydration.  Since experimenting with water only hair washing, I’ve experienced how our scalp’s natural oils have the ability to truly moisturize our hair better than any product.  During this time I also became aware that my low porosity hair did not need even half of the leave-in hair products that I once thought it did.  Now I have a simple zero waste hair regimen that involves rinsing and moisturizing my hair daily.  I also cleanse my hair twice a month, and do a henna and coconut milk hair treatment bi-monthly.  That’s it!

With low porosity hair less truly is much much more!

(Image by Dawn Michelle)

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  1. Temi says

    April 8, 2016 at 2:07 pm

    I’m not going to lie, I’ve really struggled with my low po hair. In fact, things were getting so bad that I considered damaging my cuticles one way or another so my hair could become more porous. Porous hair just seemed easier to handle – you just use loads of rich products and seal them in. Thank goodness I didn’t though…

    Nothing I did/no product I used was able to get my hair moisturised. And I tried everything… Heat, protein, light leave ins etc. Now that I think about it, I’ve wasted so much money 🙁

    It was while looking for yet another solution that I stumbled across ayurvedic products, which lead me to your blog, which lead me to your zero waste regimen. Just started water washing so I really hope it works. I think it will though… The logic behind it makes sense.

    p.s. I’m not really a fan of the hair strand in water test. I think it can be quite unreliable – so many factors can affect if your hair sinks or floats. But I think those with low po hair will definitely know even without the test. I remember looking at my hair sometimes and literally seeing drops of water just sitting on top of my stands… and it wasn’t even wash day! smh

    Reply
    • Dawn Michelle says

      April 8, 2016 at 3:31 pm

      Hi Temi,
      Thanks so much for your comment! Please keep us posted on how things work out with your simpler hair regimen and water only rinses. Your natural oils will do so much more for your hair than anything you can buy in the store. Have a great weekend!

      Reply
  2. Ferid♥ says

    April 9, 2016 at 6:38 am

    Wow! Your hair is beautiful ♥. I really love your hair color! I have shoulder length curls like yours, but my hair goes up. How do you get it to hang down? Is it very long? Also, any tips for high-porosity hair?
    Thanks~~♥

    Reply
    • Dawn Michelle says

      April 9, 2016 at 12:07 pm

      Hi Ferid,
      Thank you so much! My hair color is from using henna/coconut milk applications, and it’s shrinkage that makes curls so it’s not a bad thing at all. Also what is the current state of your hair now despite being high porosity?

      Reply
  3. Courtney says

    April 9, 2016 at 7:57 am

    Hi, Dawn Michelle,

    First and foremost, I thank you immensely for the thoroughness of your posts and for sharing all of your invaluable insight. I’m interested in trying out this regimen for myself, as I have (VERY!) low porosity hair. But before I dive in, I have a few questions so that I can ensure the best results possible:

    1. How do you know that your hair is getting sufficient water from your daily rinses? I have trouble getting moisture into my hair with just water and co-wash with a mixture of conditioner, water, and a tad bit of baking soda in order to get my cuticles to open up. I’m afraid rinsing with straight water will just lead to the water sitting on top of my hair.

    2. How do you get your hair to air dry in only an hour? I understand that this has a lot to do with your hair’s genetic make-up, of course. But I’m wondering if you blot your hair with a t-shirt or microfiber towel right out of the shower, and then apply your shea butter to damp (not soaking wet) hair? I apply my styling aid (a botanical gel) to soaking wet hair…and then I sit under the dryer for about 30 minutes…and the roots/inside of my hair is still very wet. If I let my hair air dry completely, I think it would take well over 8 hours.

    3. When you rinse with apple cider vinegar after shampooing, how exactly do you do it? For example, I was thinking of filling my 12-ounce applicator bottle with 1/4 apple cider vinegar and the rest with water. After applying the mixture, I had planned to rinse my hair one final time under the shower head with plain water. Is this okay?

    4. How much shea butter do you apply to your hair as a styling aid after your rinses/washes? Half a tablespoon? I’m just trying to get some sort of idea, because I know I have a tendency to apply too much! lol

    5. And, finally, this is more of a statement, than a question: I am so afraid of applying the henna deep conditioning concoction. And this is because, admittedly, I have never used henna and don’t color my hair at all. But you truly believe the henna has reduced frizz? if that is the case, then I just may have to try it!

    Okay, I think that’s it. I’m sorry if my questions seem out of left field. I’m Type A and pay close attention to details. lol

    Thanks, again,

    Courtney

    Reply
    • Dawn Michelle says

      April 9, 2016 at 12:21 pm

      Hi Courtney,

      I don’t use store bought hair care products and instead use my natural oils that my scalp produces to condition my hair along with a few other all natural things for my hair. My hair responds to my current hair regimen differently than it would when I was using “natural/botanical” products which still contain synthetic ingredients. Synthetic ingrdients coat the hair, mess with water absorption, and also create product build-up. When working with the truly natural state of your hair, it will also dry quicker because there is no coating from synthetic ingredients. That’s why it can take 3-6+ hours for your hair to completely dry when leaving conditioners, gels, etc. in your hair.

      I do use an old applicator bottle for my ACV rinses and I apply more shea butter on days that I wash my hair to my hair in sections. How much to apply depends upon the thickness and length of your hair. On other days that I just water rinse I’ll apply maybe a quarter size amount to all of my hair and squeeze it into the ends up. If I need more I’ll add more. I pay attention to my hair needs.

      Also I’ve shared a bunch of articles on the benefits of henna. You can see my latest where I share the differences that I’ve seen in my hair from not using it to when I was using it more in this article. I hope this helps!

      Reply
  4. Courtney Conover says

    April 10, 2016 at 1:53 pm

    Thanks so much for your reply, Dawn Michelle! Have a great week ahead.

    Reply
    • Dawn Michelle says

      April 10, 2016 at 2:47 pm

      Hi Courtney Conover,
      Of course! You have a great week too!

      Reply
  5. Christina J says

    April 11, 2016 at 6:08 am

    Thanks for the tips! I have fine textured low porosity/density hair. I’ve been using Alaffia Black Soap – Ylang Ylang lavender shampoo from whole foods and have found it very cleansing to my scalp. However, I would like to use a natural/organic cleanser. Would you completely recommend bentonite or continue with the commercial cleanser or make my own black soap? I have only used rhassoul and found it cleansing as well.

    Reply
    • Dawn Michelle says

      April 12, 2016 at 12:13 pm

      Hi Christina J,
      All of the natural hair cleansers you mentioned would be great for hair. It is just about using what your hair likes. My hair prefers clay washes or the pure olive oil soap that I’ve been using. It was trying different things that helped me to come to this conclusion. I hope this helps some!

      Reply
  6. Ferid♡ says

    April 22, 2016 at 11:58 pm

    Thanks for replying. Other than dry ends, my hair is in good condition.

    Reply
    • Dawn Michelle says

      April 23, 2016 at 1:49 pm

      Hi Ferid,
      You are so welcome! Have a beautiful weekend!

      Reply
  7. Amaira says

    August 17, 2016 at 3:55 pm

    Can i use olive oil instead of shea butter..and will my hair smell bad since i won’t be using any products?

    Reply
    • Dawn Michelle says

      August 17, 2016 at 5:19 pm

      Hi Amaira,

      I’m assuming you are thinking to begin a simpler hair regimen. If you are accustomed to synthetic fragrances in hair products, it is a huge change to create a completely chemical-free hair regimen. You can add essential oils/oil resins to your hair oil for scent though. Vanilla absolute is one of my favorites.

      I have not experienced my hair smelling bad solely doing water rinses, yet I also eat a very clean diet. I also have incorporated using a shampoo bar/soap and an apple cider vinegar rinse twice a month along with my almost daily rinses to keep my hair and scalp clean. It is all about finding what oils and/or butters work best for your hair and what regimen and styling routine benefits your hair the most.

      If olive oil works well for you then go for it. I shared my hair regimen in detail here. I hope this helps!

      Reply
  8. faty says

    November 23, 2016 at 9:00 am

    Hi!
    I have discovered your blog and I couldn’t be happier! my hair has very low porosity but is very very dry !! I was wondering where to start… and i saw you mentioned clarifying your hair. How does this work?

    Reply
    • Dawn Michelle says

      November 23, 2016 at 12:16 pm

      Hi Faty,
      Clarifying your hair will remove product build up and allow your strands to absorb water which is the best moisturizer for your hair. If your hair can not absorb water from product build up, your hair will remain very dry. Sometimes it can take more than a few washes to remove build up from your hair depending upon the products that you use and how often. Less is definitely more with low porosity hair. I shared this article on avoiding product build up. I hope this helps.

      Reply
  9. Ashli says

    March 20, 2017 at 3:08 pm

    Hi Dawn!

    You mention that you use coconut milk in you henna treatments. My hair absolutely hates coconut oil. After using it, my hair gets really dry and brittle. I did a henna treatment once a few years ago, and I don’t really remember the results of it, and am wanting to try it again. This time though, I’m much more educated about my hair and have learned it’s EXTREMELY low porosity and hates coconut oil. I’m really trying to just counteract any hardening/ drying side effects of the henna, and was wondering how your hair deals with coconut oil as opposed to coconut milk. If my hair doesn’t do well with the oil, do you think the milk is ok? If not, and more suggestions to make the henna more moisturizing?

    Thanks!

    Reply
    • Dawn Michelle says

      March 25, 2017 at 7:29 pm

      Hi Ashli,
      This is a good question! My hair does not work well with coconut oil but has no problem with coconut milk and henna. I don’t know why this is the case but it is. You may want to try it adding another oil to the mix. I used to use henna, coconut milk, and hemp seed oil for my henna treatments. After sometime I stopped adding the oil because my hair didn’t need it. I hope this helps some!

      Reply
  10. Katrina says

    May 9, 2017 at 2:45 pm

    I have found my hair is at its best and most moisturizered after a henna treatment. In between that I have a hard time getting it to not be dry, stiff and keeping it shiny. I have tried using heat with deep conditioners, putting leave in when wet, putting leave in when damp, etc. still not as good as henna day. I am considering adding henna to all my deep conditioners and doing it every week or every other week. Any advice? Considering the Max hydration method too

    Reply
    • Dawn Michelle says

      May 10, 2017 at 9:46 am

      Hi Katrina,
      Henna really is amazing! One way you can incorporate it more frequently and easily is creating a henna tea for your hair. (Please search “henna tea” in the search box and the article will come up. I can’t link to it right now for some odd reason.) As for the maximum hydration method, I’ve never tried it because it has too many steps and seems to be an overkill. I also have found using unrefined organic shea butter (when I had loose curly hair) to be really helpful for maintaining moisture in my hair. I hope this helps!

      Reply
  11. Shakira Duncan says

    June 9, 2017 at 4:58 am

    Do you have any suggestions on a method or regimen for low porosity 4b/4c hair. I like DIY products because I’m a stay a home mom of three. So I don’t always have the time to do wash or rinse everyday.

    Reply
    • Dawn Michelle says

      June 10, 2017 at 3:01 pm

      Hi Shakira Duncan,
      Everyone’s curls are uniquely different yet when I wore my curls loose before starting a loc journey I used this regimen. I shared more on the exact products here. This was the simplest natural hair care regimen to date for loose natural hair. Maybe it can serve as an example or inspiration or at least be helpful in some way.

      Reply
  12. Lisa says

    December 26, 2017 at 11:07 am

    Girl, thank you so much for this post. I have low po hair and I am just now understanding the importance of hydrating my hair and rinsing it everyday….This confirms my initial thoughts…thanks.

    Reply
    • Dawn Michelle says

      December 27, 2017 at 12:01 pm

      Hi Lisa,
      Every time I deviate from daily or almost daily rinsing I see a huge difference in my hair. My hair loves to be fully saturated with water. I’m so glad this was helpful to you.

      Reply
  13. Asia says

    January 1, 2018 at 9:18 am

    I just did the porosity test on my hair and found that it is low porosity. So my question to you is because you do a rinse each day and moisturize, what kind of styles are you doing? I have been natural 5 years, though each year ive big chopped from not seeing as much growth as i wanted, my last chop this past Feb, so im looking for styles to wear each day that allow me to just rinse andmoisturize. Any suggestions?

    Reply
    • Dawn Michelle says

      January 2, 2018 at 12:18 pm

      Hi Asia,
      I’m not rinsing my hair daily now as I have modified my hair regimen since having my son. Large two strand twists that can be pinned in an updo is a great daily rinsing and moisturizing style. I hope this helps!

      Reply
  14. Adebanjo Bukola says

    March 30, 2018 at 9:44 am

    Great write up,I really can’t afford store bought products for now.Could you help with homemade DIYs? I am really at the verge of giving up on my 3yrs afro hair my hair is low po 4b4c hair .It sucks most times thanks

    Reply
    • Dawn Michelle says

      April 2, 2018 at 12:33 am

      Hi Adebanjo,
      For starters I would use a clay wash to remove all hair product build up… specifically bentonite clay and apple cider vinegar. It may take more than a few washes depending upon what you were previously using in your hair. I will say that my original zero waste hair regimen is super affordable. I’m currently doing pretty much the same thing aside from using safflower oil instead of shea butter and wearing my hair stretched and in buns. I hope this helps!

      Reply
  15. Nieta Elias says

    October 7, 2018 at 4:41 pm

    Your hair is amazing gorgeous. I’m having issues with my hair. It’s starting to thin and is becoming very dry and brittle when I comb through it. Do you have any suggestions on what type of products I should use to maintain a head of healthy wav hair. I greatly appreciate your help twards some healthy hair tips. Thank you much.

    Reply
    • Dawn Michelle says

      October 19, 2018 at 5:15 pm

      Hi Nieta,
      Thank you. Sometimes dry hair can be a result of product build up. Have you done a clarifying treatment? I shared info on product build up here. Also you want to find out if the hair thinning is hormonal or stress related. I’ve had massive hair shedding when mourning a death in the family or under other extreme stresses. You can also find more info on natural hair care in this series. I hope this helps!

      Reply
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  • My Fall/ Winter 2019 Capsule Wardrobe is up FINALLY!  It's taken me a LONG time to get this capsule wardrobe together. Much of it is linen, thrifted, and a few pieces I sewed myself.  I was really worried I wouldn't be prepared for winter back on the east coast, but I did get it together.  Luckily winter in North Carolina is not even close to winter further north. 🍂🍁
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