When I recently shared my updated curly hair regimen, my main focus was to share my hair care techniques and methods for healthy curls. My focus for this regimen was to create zero waste, or as close as possible. It was also important for this regimen to be extremely simple and free of toxic chemicals that pollute our water supply. I’ve mixed some of the principles of water only hair washing for extra moisture with four all natural “products”… an olive oil soap bar, a diluted apple cider vinegar rinse, shea butter, and my henna/coconut milk hair treatment. Let’s now get into the product brands, where I purchase everything, and the average monthly/yearly cost of this regimen.
Pure Olive Oil Soap–Shampoo
I purchase Kiss My Face Pure Olive Oil Soap wrapped in recyclable paper packaging from Whole Foods or Sprouts. I use it in the place of fancier shampoo bars because it works better for my curly hair. While doing some research, I learned that pure castile soap traditionally only contained olive oil where now other brands use various carrier oils. Pure olive oil soap is said to be the most gentle kind of soap that can be used on skin and hair. Kiss My Face Pure Olive Oil Soap is fragrance-free, phthalate-free, GMO-free, free of artificial colors, and has no animal testing. It only contains three ingredients… saponified olive oil, water, and sea salt.
Organic Apple Cider Vinegar–Conditioner/pH Balancer
I dilute apple cider vinegar with water to create a simple hair conditioning rinse after I wash my hair with the pure olive oil soap. I purchase organic apple cider vinegar from Trader Joe’s, and it comes in a recyclable glass bottle. Infusing apple cider vinegar with herbs or adding a few drops of essential oils to this rinse is wonderful.
Organic Unrefined Fair Trade Shea Butter–Leave-In
Supporting fair trade is important to me. Mountain Rose Herbs only sells organic and fair trade ingredients in bulk, so I bought a gallon of shea butter to minimize the quantity of packaging over time. This gallon will last me for possibly two years. I’ve decided that I could repurpose this gallon container to collect food scraps for composting. Hard plastics can also be down-cycled much more easily than flimsy plastic packaging.
Henna + Amla + Coconut Milk–Hair Treatment
I’ve been using henna for hair since March 2010, so six years now. I’ve always mixed henna and coconut milk for the best results. I’ve recently been adding amla powder to my henna mix. I have yet to find a local store that sells henna loose in the bulk section in Los Angeles like the organic co-op I saw in Portland, Oregon yet I am hopeful. In the meantime, I currently purchase henna and amla from my local Indian grocery store. The packaging for this henna and amla powder is sadly not zero waste at all, yet one of each will last the entire year. Inside the paper box, the amla is packaged in plastic. I purchase organic canned coconut milk from Trader Joe’s which is recyclable.
Extremely Cost Effective Hair Care
I’ve spent ridiculous amounts on curly hair care in the past. Now that I have a simple regimen that works well for me, I’ve also greatly reduced my hair care budget. I would say that this almost zero waste hair care regimen will cost an average of $96 for the year, or $8 per month. You can see the financial breakdown below of the items I purchased locally aside from the shea butter which was ordered online.
Kiss My Face Olive Oil Soap (8 oz)–$3.99 each or $11.97 for three bars this year as it lasts a very long time.
Trader Joe’s Organic Unfiltered Apple Cider Vinegar (16 oz)–$2.49 each or $7.47 for three during the year using 2 oz of apple cider vinegar to 6 oz of water for each rinse.
Mountain Rose Herbs Organic Fair Trade Shea Butter (1 gallon/128 ounces + shipping)–$113.00 (or $56.50 for the year) This will probably last me two years! I will freeze half to extend the shelf life.
Dulhan Supreme Henna (500 g)–$6.99 for 6 treatments by using 0.75 cups per treatment.
Hesh Amla Powder (100 g)–$2.99 by using 2 tablespoons with each treatment.
Trader Joe’s Organic Canned Coconut Milk (13.5 oz)–$1.69 or $10.14 for six full cans for six treatments.
If you have not read how I incorporate these “products” into my curly hair regimen along with daily water only hair rinses, then check out My Zero Waste Curly Hair Regimen. I share so much detail about my daily, bi-weekly, and bi-monthly techniques to makes these simple products do wonders for my hair in that article!
Much Love!
(Images by Briony Albert & Dawn Michelle)
Jameelah says
Hi Mrs. Dawn, I would just like to share I am African American and have a similar texture to yours but have found these past 4 years that shampoo bars even the one you have have damaged my hair. I have tried diff brands and types. Used different ph balancers acv or lemon or citric acid. Yet ultimately I get dried out hair My cuticles have a hard time staying down and I do a lot of protein treatments to correct the damage from the high ph of the bars.
I have natural hair I was sulfate free then curly girl then shampoo bars and water only back an forth. I had healthy long shiny hair well moisturized and am now growing out all the damage the soap has done. Now if I shampoo it will be ph balanced and from what I’ve researched no bar of soap can achieve the ph of hair due to the alkaline nature of soap.
I too live very natural and have followed your blog over the years you’re very inspiring. I am commenting out of love not hate and understand everyone’s different. I have also seen bloggers coming out to say the same thing about the no poo method or shampoo bars drying out their hair and damaging it because of the harsh ph.
I have definitely learnt my lesson since I refused that the natural soaps could be damaging my hair but I’ve lost half my length. I would shampoo weekly and do a proper ph rinse afterwards yet the damage is done. I love that you’re going for zero waste I just want to warm you to be on the lookout if your hair starts showing signs of damage it’s the soap.
Dawn Michelle says
Hi Jameelah,
I am so sorry that you experienced hair damage and thanks for sharing this. I felt the exact same way about shampoo bars in the past, which is why I was shocked how well my hair responded to this pure olive oil soap. I’m rinsing my hair daily while working with my natural oils, and currently only using the olive oil soap twice a month. I may possibly stretch out my shampoos to every three weeks or even only monthly if necessary.
Using an alkaline hair wash weekly can definitely cause damage to the hair cuticle especially if your hair is high porosity or chemically treated. I also wrote about the possible damaging effects of alkaline hair cleansers here. It is so important to know your own hair. I shared my regimen details in this article to explain why using these products works well for me.
Products alone will not create a healthy hair regimen. It is a how you use them, how often, and the combination of products and techniques. I will of course monitor my hair over the next months and it is suggested for anyone trying a new regimen to do the same to ensure that the products and techniques are really working well for you. I really do appreciate your comment. Best wishes on your healthy hair journey!
Annie Frost says
I have a fine loose curl and have loved what henna does for my hair. Especially with a no poo regiment.
I have been using Mountain Rose herbs henna and have not added amla, but am wanting to for next time. I looked into getting the same kind of henna you use and noticed it has a little amla in it already, do you feel like you get better results adding more amla?
Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Dawn Michelle says
Hi Annie Frost,
The Godrej Nupur 9 Henna does have amla in it but the Dulhun Supreme Henna does not. I like the benefits from adding amla to both.
Pamela Thompson says
Dawn thanks so for much for your insights on these products. I have use the Kiss My Face Olive Oil Soap twice once a week. I like the way it lathers and how it moisturizes my hair. I concentrate it on my scalp and keep my hair taut to keep it from tangling. So far I like the results. I kept an extra step that I have used in my hair routine. I prepoo with my oil mixture before I shampoo either over night or for 15 to 30 minutes depending on time under my heating cap. I put my ACV in a spray bottle with rose water (conditions and lowers the ph) using the same ratio you mention in your article. Rose water from the India store is $2.99 a bottle and only has two ingredients. These are the same ingredients that was in my clay wash. I choose to keep the items that were working in my hair. I spray each section (8 total) to ensure the cuticles are closed and seal with my whipped Shea Butter. My hair takes a long time to dry. I put in 8 or 10 loosely twists and Bantu knot the ends. After air drying I undo the twists, being careful not to over separate and it looks like a wash and go.
One value lesson that I have learned is when a hair blogger reveals their hair routine is not to throw away what has been working for your hair. You tailor it to your hair needs, climate and water quality. I was looking for a cleansing product that would not leave the grainy residue in my tub like my clay wash. So far the shampoo bar that you recommended is working. Shea Butter is very heavy for my hair. I have to use small amounts to avoid it being greasy. I cleanse my hair weekly to avoid build up. I do one water wash in the middle of the week and seal with my whipped Shea Butte. I do not have a lot of natural oils due to menopause to do daily rinses and my hair would never be dry if I did daily rinses.
Shampoos (liquid or bar forms) will have a higher ph. The ACV purpose is just like conditioners and that is to lower the ph, condition the hair and close the cuticles after you cleanse it. I will continue to evaluate my hair for any ill effects. I can always go back to clay rinses if it does. I believe my hair is going to continue to thrive because everything I use on it is natural and my routine is simple.
I appreciate how you are always researching and sharing ways that make our lives easier. I am now reading your lowering your debt series (just completed my Master’s degree in nursing) and my repayment of my student loans will start in June. Also I am getting rid of excess clutter during my spring break and your articles on that has been real helpful. I created my capsule wardrobe a year ago and love it. Your blog has been very informational and helpful. Thank you so much.
I am on the hunt for a sofa similar to yours. My husband I live in a townhouse. We did the traditional sofa, chairs and love seat and it is too much for the space. What a nice find and the eye you had to see the treasure beneath the grim.
Dawn Michelle says
Hi Pamela Thompson,
Thank you so much for your lovely comment! It sounds like you have created a great hair regimen, and I’m glad your plan is to monitor its progress as well. You are so right about not completely altering your regimen when you learn of another’s. Instead incorporating things that aren’t working for you with the things that do is a good way to go about it. Best wishes paying down student loans and congratulations on your Master’s! Also I hope that you are able to find a new couch soon too! Enjoy the rest of your weekend!
Priya Bhatt says
Hi Dawn,
Would like to ask you, what do you do, for protection of scalp and hair from Sun?
Any suggestions?
Love,
Priya
Dawn Michelle says
Hi Priya Bhatt,
I wear my hair in a low bun with a straw hat for sun protection. You can see how my hat looks here. Wearing a hat is the best way in my opinion. Hope this helps!
Jess | Rose & Fig says
Bookmarking this! Awesome, simple recipes for healthy hair.
Dawn Michelle says
Thanks Jess | Rose & Fig!
Kimberly says
Hi Dawn Marie – thanks for this update. I have a soft spot for amla. I use it mixed with water as a facial scrub. It’s like a having a microdermabrasion session. Leaves my skin clear, smooth and “fresher” looking.
Dawn Michelle says
Hi Kimberly,
Amla is one of those amazing herbs that is incredible for hair, skin, and internally since it is so high in vitamin C. I haven’t used it for skin care in a long time, but I do know what you love it so much. Hope you are having a beautiful day!
Ashley Aranmolate says
Dawn, this post and your blog in general has helped me make sense of living a low impact lifestyle. Practical and enjoyable posts! All the best!
Dawn Michelle says
Hi Ashley Aranmolate,
Thank you so much for letting me know and for your comment. I’m thrilled! Best wishes with everything!
Amie says
Hi Dawn,
I want to start using henna on my hair, especially since I’m starting to gray. Reading over your blogs I noticed that back in 2014 you experimented with henna and indigo for a black color verses the red tones you had as a result of using henna alone. In this year’s blog you mentioned using henna and Amla. Well, I purchased your favorite brand and on the package it has Amla listed as one of the 9 herbs. So my questions are: What are the benefits of adding extra Amla to the blend? Do you know if your favorite brand will cover up my grays? In general, what should I expect? Are you still using the indigo & mountain roseherbs henna, and if not why not?
I found a salon close by that will apply the henna to my hair and the young women mentioned using pure indigo afterwards (mixed with water and salt) supposedly it will help cover the grays with a darker color.. She said the henna alone with make my grays appear reddish orange… I have also read that once the indigo is on, hair can turn out blue black… I’m confused and concerned… I trust any suggestions you may have to help calm my nerves. I truly appreciate you, all of your blogs and the time you take out of your day to reply back to everyone’s messages! Thank you for sharing your lifestyle with us!!!
Dawn Michelle says
Hi Amie,
I have not used indigo for awhile with my henna since I actually do love the red tones henna gives my hair. It is not that I did not like my hair jet black though too. I mainly use henna for a strengthening and conditioning treatment more so than for color alone.
The henna that you bought will color grey hair. Henna alone will make grey hair a coppery red color just as your stylist said. This can look like red highlights with dark hair. If you have blond/light brown hair, using henna alone will dye your hair in a natural red tone like a natural red head. The more full applications of henna, the darker and richer the color will be.
If you desire a brown hair color, purchasing a premixed henna/indigo will take out the guess work. If you desire a strawberry blond a premixed henna/cassia will work. Doing a two step henna and indigo is best if you desire jet black hair, yet there are also great henna/indigo premixed color treatments as well. I have a ton of other articles on henna throughout the site that share more info as well. I hope this helps!
Amie says
Hi Dawn,
Thanks that did help!
My natural hair color is dark brown and in the sun it looks lighter… sometimes a bit of red tones can be noticed.
Since I’m using henna for coloring and of course all of the other benefits, should I mix with coconut milk or water only?
Thanks!!!
Dawn Michelle says
Hi Amie,
You can get amazing dye release with coconut milk as well as have it rinse out easily. I wrote more on that here. Glad this info was helpful!
Marcia says
Hi Dawn,
I love, love, love your blog. It has been so helpful to my hair journey….so thank you.
I am currently doing the water only washing method and I love how soft my hair feels. I have low porosity hair so I am also practicing the Maximum hydration method, minus any baking soda whatsoever because I do not want to risk the damage, so I am using a rhassoul clay wash instead (this is the modified version of MHM). So along with sebum conditioned hair I will have hair strands that have are hydrated so as to define my natural curl pattern, which up until recently I did not realize I had and certainly did think was ever possible, I thought dry hair was a lifetime battle that I just had to deal with, but I now see otherwise.
My query to myself is this…..How do I balance the two methods? Because to me and my hair care needs they are the two pieces of the puzzle the clearly belong together. I would like to gently lift my cuticles on occasion (which the clay does do) to allow hydration into the strands without stripping all my sebum (which i am not certain the clay won’t do) You mentioned in one of your posts that you needed to find the right balance of water and clay so as not to strip all your sebum and in another post you stated that you started using the olive oil bar because you could not find any clay right.
I am right in assuming that you found the right balance of clay but since your were not able to get it anymore you resorted to the olive oil bar and luckily liked it. Do you mind my asking what was the formula for the clay mixture ended with? Was is stripping to much of your natural oil? Do you find the olive bar works better? Although we do not have the same hair needs I was wondering if I might want to try the olive oil bar for the gentle lift to my cuticles if I cannot formulate the clay to work with my regimen.
Also I love to use rhassoul clay because it is not drying to my hair. Do you find the olive bar to be moisturizing?
Dawn Michelle says
Hi Marcia,
Thanks so much for the compliment! When I was doing strictly water only hair washing for sometime my hair had way too much sebum on my strands. Oil rinses helped for awhile then started to build up. Clay washes at some point didn’t remove enough of my sebum. Also sebum production can vary depending upon stress or current health/lifestyle. Last year I was doing a major detox so my sebum production was extreme and out control.
I shared my current regimen in detail here. I like using an olive oil soap bar biweekly to cleanse my hair and scalp. It removes enough sebum to keep my hair manageable without stripping it dry. I rinse my hair daily with water inbetween washes. This is what has been working currently for me so far this entire year. You may want to use your extended hair regimen biweekly or as you feel you need to and water rinse inbetween and see how that works for you.
I don’t use clay anymore because of my zero waste efforts. Also because I’m not mixing anything really anymore outside of diluting apple cider vinegar and water, wash day is much simpler. I honestly can’t say I remember my exact clay mixture but it was extremely diluted and watery. Even when I did a 50/50 mix at one point it wasn’t removing the excess sebum as I had wanted it too. That was when I had too much though. I hope this helps!
Marcia Green says
Just checking that I did not lose my last comment because I do not see it
Dawn Michelle says
Hi Marcia,
Comments are moderated with new authors. After awhile they will just show though. Have a beautiful day!
Arianna says
Hi Dawn Michelle!
Thank you for continuing to share your health journey, I have been enjoying your blog for over a year! I have been doing water only hair washing for the past year and a half, and I realize that solely water only doesn’t benefit my hair. Lately, I have been clay washing every week or two and rinsing every single day. After rinsing I dry my hair with a tee shirt and add shea butter or shea butter and grape seed oil. My hair feels good for the day but then the ends turn to straw. I have NO idea what I’m doing wrong, and I’m debating whether or not I should try using a “natural” conditioner. I haven’t used conventional hair products for nearly two years, and I’d love to continue using food based/plant based items to support my hair. I am low porosity (my hair looks similar to yours except it’s a tighter), so I know that I need to cleanse my hair more often, but even when I cleanse with clay and ACV, my hair still remains brittle at the end of the day. Ive had to cut off so much this year and it is frustrating. I give myself a trim and then a month later (after sealing my ends with shea butter and rinsing everyday), I have to snip off more and more. If you could please shed some light on this situation, I’d be so happy to hear your thoughts! I hope you are well! Thank you!
Dawn Michelle says
Hi Arianna,
I’m so glad you’ve been enjoying the blog! Ok if your hair is dry you may want to switch to a different hair cleanser such as aritha or shikakai and a conditioning herb such as amla instead of clay or cleanse your hair every 2-3 weeks versus weekly. I’ve been using an olive oil soap as a hair cleanser which I absolutely love. You can see my current hair regimen here.
Also do you have a shower water filter? The quality of tap water that you are washing your hair with is everything. Hard water is horrible. That’s what we have in LA, but after being in the desert where the water is so much better I saw an immediate positive effect on my hair.
Lastly see if using less shea butter helps and also making sure to preen your hair in the shower so your natural oils coat the ends of your hair when rinsing. After doing primarily water only for a year plus, you should have full coverage of your natural oils which condition your hair thoroughly. This coverage is extremely important for keeping your hair protected and moisturized.
Also how you style your hair can put stress on the ends causing dryness and breakage. If you twisting or braiding your hair daily with rinsing, it could be too much overall. Sometimes rinsing in medium/chunky twists and putting your hair in a gentle updo can make a big difference. I hope this helps!
Aoibheann Ni Cheallachain says
Hi Dawn, I check in with your blog every few months ever since you inspired me to try to find a way to embrace my curly/frizzy hair, and I gave up conventional shampoo and conditioner….I am so grateful, as I finally actively enjoy my hair rather than put up with it! It is SO soft, better clumped, and I never have to do battle with it to get it brushed as I used! I will never go back 🙂 The only way I could be happier is if I could get my tight curl back – as it is my curls look pulled out, and not even the ends are curling up tight like they used to, even though as I mention the clumping is improved. I suspect I have excess sebum coverage – I was only using the acv rinse as a cleanser once a week or so (I do daily water washing) – and had just thought I might need a better cleanser when I thought to check where you were on your journey and found this post. I did try a natural shampoo bar before but the alkalinity had a desperate effect (you solved that for me btw!). I’d still like to give this a go though. Thanks as usual for the new lead – and if you had any thoughts I’d be so glad! All the best, Aoibheann
Dawn Michelle says
Hi Aoibheann,
You may want to try finger detangling instead of brushing your curls. Any time I’ve used a comb or brush this disrupts my curl pattern and causes more frizz. Using tools to clump curls only works if you are also using conditioner. If your hair is being weighed down by your natural oils then a good cleansing would help. Best wishes!
SDee says
Hi Dawn!
Long time lover of your blog! Since you have modified your water-washing routine, what have you been using as a “conditioning wash” following the rinsing of your henna mixture? I, too, embraced the water-only routine with a few tweaks. I’ve previously used henna (mixed with lemon juice) and always used to follow up with a co-wash/conditioner, but I’m not sure what to do post-henna now. I’m thinking a nice banana baby food/coconut milk treatment would be nice, but would it be necessary?
Dawn Michelle says
Hi SDee,
After a henna I sometimes will do an oil treatment and sometimes I just rinse and style. (The rinsing and styling is on a super lazy day.) I know my hair well and sometimes this works fine and other times I end up having to deep condition later on because my hair feels dry. The banana/coconut milk treatment is a great option as well as other DIY mixes such as honey and avocado etc. I hope this helps and thank you for your kind words!
Casey says
I LOVE love love this. Tried it on my fine, oily, curly hair today. Awesome♡
Thank you!
Dawn Michelle says
Hi Casey,
Awesome!!! I’m so glad and thanks for sharing!
Ingrid Davenport says
Hi! My daughter has supertight curls when its grown out. I have used relaxers on her hair and am trying to go all natural but her hair grows as an afro rather than weighed down. What will help with loosening the curl? I am really wanting to try this henna treatment, but dont know where to start! I really dont want to color her hair. Please help!
Dawn Michelle says
Hi Ingrid,
If you aren’t interested in the color henna gives the hair you can also try cassia which is often called neutral henna. I’m not sure if you are trying to transition her hair but if so maybe these tips will be helpful.
DY says
I can’t tell you how elated I am to have found your site! Transitioning to a zero waste/homemade formula is something I’ve longed to do but-
How do you suggest one transition to zero waste/minimal waste hair care?
My low porosity 3b/c thick hair (and oily scalp) hate coconut and proteins so its hard to find much. I currently use shea moisture low porosity line once a week and their peace rose neem oil formula 1 to 2 times a week depending how often I wash. Ouidad moisture lock is my current leave in. I’m seriously desiring eliminating buying product because I don’t think my hair or scalp want the products anymore. My hair isnt brittle or very dry. It’s actually quite elastic and has hardly any dead hair even though I haven’t had it cut in more than 2 years. The length does down to the small of the back. I’d like to keep the length and transition to zero waste and a more homemade formula without reversing the hard work to get my hair to where it is. I’m also fairly active: I run 3 times a week and strength train inbetween the run days. I know it’s not okay to wash every single day, so I think a water only rinse would be okay as long as I use a leave in of some sort after. As far as styling goes I’m as plain and plain Jane- braid or buns! I know its not wise to go “cold turkey” , can you suggest where I should tweak some things to start the transition to a more homemade and less wasteful ( and less costly) regimen? Also, should this be stretched over say a 3 month period or shorter?
This is so important to me for several reasons. Namely I dont lead a lifestyle that requires so much product! Nor do I enjoy purchasing all these “needed” bottles or varying product (clarifying shampoo, moisturizing products, leave in, then deep, and gels (ugh!)), my hair and scalp are picky, and really, spending too long reading labels on these products to make sure theres no sulphate, silicones, parabens etc….
=) I probably should have done this years ago… again, so happy I found your site!
Dawn Michelle says
Hi DY,
I’m so glad you found Minimalist Beauty. One of the easiest ways to minimize your products would be to only use a store bought leave-in conditioner (or regular conditioner as a leave-in) and find a shampoo bar that would work for your hair and scalp. You can then use a shea butter mix or oil to seal in moisture and flaxseed gel for styling on the days you want more hold for your edges etc. Then overtime you can see if you want to try to skip the leave-in or not. This way you would only be buying one store bought products versus the whole gamut. I hope this helps.
laura says
I was surprised and delighted to see you use olive oil soap for your hair. I just started doing this too due to skin allergies, but the zero waste feature is a great bonus. But yeah, I can’t use commercial hair products at all.
In 2016, when this was posted, I was loving Kiss My Face olive oil soap bars not for my hair, but just for showering. KMF company was bought by another company sometime in 2018-2019 and KMF products were hard to find. In late 2019-2020 the product changed. I can’t use it anymore because it now aggravates my extremely sensitive skin. They probably reformulated and started using cheaper ingredients. It also now has a very slight fragrance which is an indication of a formula change cuz, you know that pure, unfragranced soap smells, uh, “unique.”
Anyway, I had to find new olive oil soap and settled on Savon Marseille which is old-school olive oil soap made from companies in Marseille, France. I use it for everything, laundry, hair, body, dishes (sometimes), and general household cleaning. It’s a product that is often hailed in the zero/low waste communities.
I started using it for my hair this year and it works! Here’s to hoping no one reformulates this ancient recipe.
Dawn Michelle says
Hi Laura,
Thanks for sharing this. I had tried the Kiss My Face Bar about a year ago and couldn’t figure out why I wasn’t getting the same results I used to. I figured it was having moved to a completely different climate. I didn’t know the company was under new ownership. I appreciate this info and will check out the olive oil soap you mentioned.